Water System

Water System 2014

The water system will consist of the fresh water holding tank, a pump, an accumulator tank, and the hot water heater. I double checked the size and the holding tank is 54 gallons. I am drawing the water a few inches up from the bottom so I estimate about 50 gallons usable. The hot water tank is both 120 VAC and can be also heated via the engine coolant system. We originally thought of using the 50 holding tank for none potable water and have 11 separate 5 gallon jugs for drinking water. This was to ensure that we didn't poison all the drinking water should we collect water from a bad source. But now that technology has prevailed we are installing a water maker which gets fresh drinking water right from the ocean. Therefore we can now use the large tank for all our fresh water and only keep 4 5 gallon containers for emergency use. The water system will be plumbed using pex tubing, blue for the cold water lines and red for the hot water lines.

Here is an earlier picture of the water tank. I tested the tank for leaks before I did anything else.	This is the area just to port side of the holding tank and in front of the engine. This is looking down through the access hatch. Pump and strainer will be mounted on the right just aft of the water tank. The large empty area to the left is where the water heater is going.


Here's the hot water heater before I installed it. All aluminum tank inside and out.	Hot water tank in its new home. The hookups face toward the aft, as this is where I will be hooking it to the engine, and letting it drain into the bilge if need be.


Side view. For easy access and control, I will install the "Water Maker" in this area above the water heater.	Now to start the plumbing from the tank to the pump. See the little valve to the left at the bottom ? It lasted about 10 times draining the test water so out it goes. If it fails we could lose all our fresh water so a new ball valve is in order.


Here is the new drain valve in place at the bottom left and the beginning of the pex tubing to the system on the right. The vertical tube is a "sight glass" so we can see exactly how much water is in the tank. I need to put markings next to it. Every inch is approximately equal to 2 gallons.	Here is a close up of the new drain valve. Notice the use of the clamp-tite stainless steel wire type hose clamp instead of the standard screw type.


Next piece of pex running over to the strainer.	Pex to the strainer then flex hose to the pump, then the output of pump goes to the accumulator tank (to be installed) .


The water tank and pump system completed. On the left you will see a slip fit pex check valve which will feed into the rest of the PEX water system. See the line going up from the T in the middle, This goes to an accumulator tank which holds the pressure at 30 PSI so the pump doesn't start and stop all the time.	I tried to connect the accumulator pump and there were simply no fittings easily available and no help from the manufacturer. I found out that a 1/2" sink connector shown here in white can connect to the tank and also to "outside world" fittings. This simple setup took many trips to both Lowes, Home Depot and Ace Hardware. Folks who tried to help us just stood there in a daze after I described what I needed. Once there was no solution, the minute I said it was for a boat they suggested I go to a marine supplier. Also the tank with these fittings is way below 1/2 inch which would be too restrictive to my 3/4" lines. So I capped off the one and fed it into one side, because it supplies pressure only. Pray for me that this whole shitten works doesn't leak !


Dock side water inlet installed.	Here is the Pex tubing roughed in for the Washer/Dryer. As you can see on the right, the PEX bends enough when you have room and it saves a 90 degree elbow. I also cleaned up the electrical wiring in this area. The black wire coming up is grounded to the water via braid that runs the full length of the ship in the keel. I will use it for the ground for all the radios which will be on the other side of the bulkhead. I am also using construction rules by installing the water lines under the electrical wiring.


Dock water source line, lower left, and water heater plumbing all done. Need to connect the water heater to the engine, but don't know where it hooks in yet.	Top view through hatch. Plumbing in the pump area is all done.


Had a lot of rouble trying to get the PEX behind the water tank to connect up to the shower. Found out there was a plugged-off tank drain that wasn't allowing the PEX to come all the way up to the cross beam for a straight install. Had to measure and cut out this area under the galley sink to hold the PEX in place behind the tank and in front of the bulkhead.	From behind the water tank the two PEX lines end up here connected to the shower taps.


I made all the plumbing connections forward and now to play under the galley sink. From here I also need to go to the head sink.	Thank goodness for flex fittings for the trap setup. All plumbed in and ready to go. Took all day to accomplish what you see here. The loop hanging down is for the sprayer. From here the water pipes go down into the bilge and over to the head sink. I had to install all the under sink shelving and garbage can to make sure it cleared the pipes. That's why the p-trap is turned sideways and I had to move one shelf farther forward.


Here is where it turns and goes back to the head sink. Also the head sink drain, the bottom one, is connected to the hose that will go over to the shower/sink box.	Here is where they make their final turn to the head sink.


Under the head sink all plumbed in.